Verify that mine works and note the firmware. So if it's soldered in, FUN.ĭid I help collect all the info you're looking for in one spot? Buy me a cup of coffee on the Ebay link on the right. So if you want to update the firmware, you have to install a new PIC. The longest DIP on the board is a 16F628, and that holds the firmware. Apparently there are different versions of for the firmware the PIC on the programmer uses. The software the video shows is at the top of this page:ĪLSO. I'd be really ticked if I'd spend the $59 original price with that level of software quality. It will do read/write/verify but the software always complains that it can't communicate with the board. One major thing is I don't think the software appears to work until you do an operation on the PIC in the socket. Here's a video explaining how to get it to work. Windows did not complain and AVG did not see any threats. The way *I* installed it is plugged it in and went thru Device Manager and did a driver 'Update' but I clicked on the option to select the driver myself from the directory I extracted the above ZIP file to. There are good directions and a download for drivers from before Prolific broke them here: But others have surmised that even older devices from reputable vendors are also rendered inoperative on OS versions they are supposed to work in. Or another story is Prolific wrote their drivers so counterfeit chips won't work.
Supposedly this chip is End of Life and 'not supported'. I just like to have official drivers when possible.)
(I may experiment here a bit later with drivers.update to come.but it may be academic. You'll see a message in device manager about contacting your supplier. Windows 10 will install drivers when you plug it in but they don't work. First, the chip that gives the problem is the Prolific PL 2303HXA.
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